After selling the previous block camo shop truck, it has left a void for a daily driven year round Typhoon for the shop. Having a turnkey Typhoon for daily duties has come in handy more times than we could imagine the more we got to thinking about it. So we decided that building another shop truck was part of the schedule to fill this void.
The next logical step in the process was to choose a solid platform to begin the build. We decided on a Black/Black 92 Typhoon, nicknamed Brutus, which has been hidden away with no motor for the last 15+ years. The truck was from the south, making it the perfect base to build upon. The original plan was to put together a completely stock truck, break it in for a few months, and then start to build upon what we had after the initial shakedown was complete.
Teardown of the truck began with the logical steps. First the gas tank was removed and drained off the not so much gas substance that has been sitting in it for so long. The fuel lines had not been plugged previously before storage, allowing the mud bees to build a perfect plug for the feed line to the fuel rail. Once we removed all of the dirt and grime from the feed line, as well as checking the return line and all other fuel lines to the tank, a new fuel filter was threaded on and we moved on to the sending unit and pump. The sending unit was still in perfect shape, knowing the fuel pump is most likely no good after all this time, it was replaced with a new Walbro 255 and a Racetronix hotwire fuel pump harness to make sure the engine will get the fuel that it needs.
Next came removing the stock suspension components, including the rear self-leveling which no longer worked. The struts on the truck were so old and worn out rendering them useless. For now all the struts were replaced with good Bilsteins, providing a good starting point and allowing the shakedown of the truck to be much easier. We have big plans related to the suspension of this truck, but for the initial couple of months it makes sense to have a stock suspension. Going along with the suspension, the brake pads were non-existent so they were replaced with new pads and the rotors were still in good shape so they were left alone. The ABS unit and lines were all removed and replaced with one of our ABS Delete kits, an easy plug and play kit improving brake feel tremendously.
All of the fluids in the truck were a mystery. Not knowing what was in the differentials, transmission and transfer case, they were all drained. The differentials were then filled back up with the proper gear oil and then a major problem arose. The fluid in the transmission pan was so dark and thick it could have easily passed off as molasses. When we first put the transmission in, it was also an unknown whether or not it was any good. After seeing the fluid it was decided the transmission needed to come back out and be replaced with a known transmission. Luckily we had a freshly built, heavy-duty transmission that would handle the power without a hiccup. This gave us a chance to clean up the transmission tunnel on the body, which came out like new. Since we did not want to put an old stock torque converter in the new transmission, we called and ordered a new 10” 2800 stall lock up torque converter, which will work perfectly for future plans with the truck. The transmission pan and flywheel/torque converter cover were powdercoated medium texture black, giving them a much cleaner look without being too much. The stock transmission lines were all hacked up with a transmission cooler up front. These were replaced with our Stainless Steel Transmission Lines, which are available in our store, allowing us to clean up what had been previously thrown together. The transmission got some fresh fluid as well as the transfer case and we moved on.
Plans started to change rapidly while playing the “while we are here” game in the engine bay. The long block itself is a stock block with all new bearings for a simple installation and starting point for modifications. The old motor mounts were worn out and needed replacing right away. Finding OE GM engine mounts has become increasingly difficult over the past few years, and the parts store brand engine mounts just don’t cut it for longevity in a Syclone or Typhoon. The decision was to try out the Jags That Run engine mount kit that is available. The plates were powdercoated matte black, protected from the heat with aluminum heat shields and then installed along with the longblock. Every piece of the engine bay that we deemed difficult or unnecessary to remove again in the future was then sandblasted and powdercoated. We wanted to keep the engine bay tidy and clean so the color choices for the powder were crucial. Three major colors were chosen, matte black on many of the hidden pieces, mega grey on the brackets and other accessory pieces, then a medium texture black on the more obvious pieces. These pieces included the upper intake, upper intercooler, and valve covers. This medium texture black is very clean while maintaining a different look than the usual matte or gloss black in engine bays.
All of the sensors were replaced in the engine bay to make sure we wouldn’t get a faulty sensor when first starting the truck. To go along with cleaning the engine bay, every bolt or nut that we removed or touched was replaced with a stainless steel product to slow down corrosion significantly during the course of winter driving. The starter was replaced with an ACDelco high torque mini starter to give more clearance by the downpipe; the alternator is also a new ACDelco piece. The ignition system got our full tune up kit which includes NGK UR6 Spark Plugs, ICE high performance ignition wires and a new cap and rotor. The distributor was replaced with a rebuilt unit along with these other pieces previously mentioned. The AC compressor was removed with the help of a pulley and an AC Delete box installed to reduce weight and clean out a good amount of space in the engine bay.
To continue with the stock build of the truck, we cerakoted a set of stock exhaust manifolds black in house. The cerakote will help to keep under hood temperatures down and is a nice touch to the engine bay. A good stock turbo was then placed on with a stock downpipe and new oxygen sensor. The old boost solenoid and wastegate were ditched, knowing that the stock boost control is all over the place. These pieces were replaced with one of our Forge Motorsport Billet Wastegates for rock solid boost control on the stock set up. Dialing in any truck with this set up is super simple and will give you much better initial and peak boost control with no fluctuation like the stock solenoid produces.